Camcorder Battery Usage Tips

Posted by admin on October 26th, 2008

# A new camcorder battery comes in a discharged condition and must be charged before use (refer to the devices manual for charging instructions). Upon initial use (or after a prolonged storage period) the digital camcorder battery may require three to four charge/discharge cycles before achieving maximum capacity.
# When charging the camcorder battery for the first time the device may indicate that charging is complete after just 10 or 15 minutes. This is a normal phenomenon with rechargeable batteries. Remove the digital camcorder battery from the device, reinsert it and repeat the charging procedure.
# It is important to condition (fully discharge and then fully charge) the camcorder battery every two to three weeks. Failure to do so may significantly shorten the battery’s life (this does not apply to Li-Ion batteries, which do not require conditioning). To discharge, simply run the device under the digital camcorder battery’s power until it shuts down or until you get a low battery warning. Then recharge the battery as instructed in the user’s manual.
# If the camcorder battery will not be in use for a month or longer, it is recommended that digital camcorder battery be removed from the device and stored in a cool, dry, clean place.
# The milliamp-hour (mAh) rating of the Hi-CapacityT camcorder battery will often be higher than the one on the original battery. A higher mAh rating is indicative of a longer lasting (higher capacity) battery and will not cause any incompatibilities. A Hi-CapacityT digital camcorder battery will, in most cases, outperform the original by 30% to 50%.
# New camcorder needs to be fully charged and discharged (cycled) a few times before it can condition to full capacity. Rechargeable batteries undergo self-discharging when left unused. Always store a digital camcorder in a fully charged staged for storage.
# Don’t short circuit terminal or store your digital camcorder with metal parts. Don’t connect and disconnect the camcorder within a short interval to prevent irregular charging of the rechargeable battery.
# It’s okay to use different brands of digital camera batteries in the same device — for example, Energizer, Duracell, and generic. Voltage is voltage, and the device neither knows nor cares that made the camera batteries you put in it. Remember, you can mix brands but not types
# Camera Batteries self-discharge quicker when it’s hot. They’re fine at room temperature, but once it’s over 90o or so, they’ll start losing their charge faster. So don’t leave digital camcorder in a hot car.
# Don’t overheat. Do not attempt to charge non-rechargeable batteries. This will overheat them and could cause a fire. Keep camcorder batteries out of hot places, like your car. Your car can be an oven, and baking your digital camcorder batteries shortens their life.

Radioisotope Thermoelectric Generators & Nuclear batteries

Posted by admin on October 26th, 2008

You cannot possibly be using portable or mammoth sized fuel-powered generators every where, but then, there are chances that you do need electricity almost everywhere. Since these sources of generating electricity aren’t everything you must be relying on, there are other alternatives. While there are some age-old tried ways to producing electricity like Bio-gas, windmills and some other organic sources, Atomic energy has evolved to be quite a miracle source of electric energy.

The potential applications for atomic energy are just unfathomable. There is an amazing potential in the focused energy derived out of atomic energy. The kinds of energy and applications you would have only heard about in science fiction. Imagine batteries that would last for years and years together and generators that could be used on satellites which would be up and away in space, far away from planet earth and even far from any kind of solar energy.

For all the breath-taking scope of applications that these RTGs can be used for, they operative principles are very simple. Semi-conductor like materials are used to bring about a differential in the heat and hence cause electricity to flow.

Now, in the nuclear energy production systems, a radio isotope like Plutonium – 238, is used which has a property of decaying and producing immense heat which is captured and electricity is produced from it. Since the decaying process can take years all together, the process is on until then. This energy emanating out of the radio isotope travels like an alpha particle but has a tendency to die too soon creating heat while doing so, this heat is in turn captured by thermocouples and generate electricity. That gives you the almost unimaginable electricity production ranging over years, non-stop, no moving parts and no maintenance.

Nuclear batteries, Radioisotope thermoelectric generators and more of their ilk have been a possibility due to the same technology and have been used previously on space missions. If you can comprehend the effort, time and money saved due to this perpetual energy when it is used with regular appliances like your laptop or cell phone, you would see almost impossible-to-achieve results.

However, these RTGs are way for commercial use. Steadily increasing the heat producing nuclear matter ’stock-pile’, it is also possible to bring down the cost of these amazing power generating technology elements. Gradual increase in awareness and technological advances should be able to bring in all such wonderful alternatives into commercial use and be made accessible to everyone.

what does it mean when i get an unstable battery reading when testing a car battery?

Posted by admin on October 22nd, 2008

i have a battery tester that i use at work and alot of cars i test it says "unstable battery" it will automatically test it again and again it will say "unstable battery" then it will automatically test it again and etc. etc. what does that mean?
i dunno the test either reads: bad cell replace;replace battery;battery good;battery good recharge;or unstable battery…i don't understand the unstable battery one

It means it is time to replace the battery! An unstable battery can cause you to get stranded at the least and it could actually blow up and/or start a fire at the worst . I have over 30 years being a mechanic and know what I am talking about … Good Luck

The battery keeps draining in my van. How can I tell if it's a bad battery or a short circuit?

Posted by admin on October 22nd, 2008

I disconnected the positive cable and put a multimeter between the cable and battery post and it was reading 10 volts. What should it read? Should I be testing for volts or ohms?

With the introduction of on-board computers, memory radios, memory seats, and other accessories, current is required to
maintain memories when the ignition switch is in the off position. As a result of the required continuous energy supply, testing methods have changed. If we use the conventional means, inaccurate conclusions can result in condemning good parts and circuits, and wasting a lot of
diagnostic time.

TESTING FOR ELECTRICAL DRAINS
The desired test instrument is a Digital Ammeter capable of reading as low as one milliamp and up to 20 amps. Meters of a lower amp range can be used by forming a shunt using two
jumper wires connected by alligator clips. Reason: the wake-up call necessary to charge the capacitors in a full option state-of-the-art automotive electrical system can require as much as 6 amps for one minute. Many digital meters are
fused at 2 amps and therefore have withdrawal symptoms when subjected to this much current.

The shunt allows the system to properly power up the capacitors while protecting the meter from excessive current loads. Once the capacitors are charged, disconnect the shunt and read the ammeter for actual drain.

HOW MUCH IS TOO MUCH?
Some tech manuals which include a Battery Testing Section reflect acceptable current drains. Listed is a typical example of a parasitic drain (load) for a General Motors Vehicle.

EXAMPLES OF PARASITIC LOADS
Device Milliamp Draw
Voltage Regulator 1 - 2
Digital Clock 3 - 4.5
Quartz Clock 7
ECM 6.5 - 8
ETR Radio & Clock 7
Load Leveling 4
Memory Seat 3
Twilight Sentinel 3

CONVENTIONAL TESTING METHODS MAY BE ILLUSIVE
Conventional electrical drain test procedures may not identify the cause of the condition. Vehicles equipped with Electronic Control Modules can exhibit a failure mode within the ECM which can result in a high parasitic current drain on the battery. Conventional testing methods may not detect the cause. Reason: when the battery cable is disconnected, the solid state circuit which caused the excessive drain may
not re-occur once the electrical circuit continuity is restored. Cycling the ignition switch to the run position, then back to the off position may cause the electrical drain to re-occur. Caution: the ignition switch should not be turned to the
accessory, run, or start position with the ammeter installed in series with the battery terminal and battery cable as damage to the meter may result. Only turn the switch to the run position
after first installing a shunt across the ammeter.
A full option GM vehicle can experience a parasitic load of 25-35 milliamps. Remember, a milliamp is one thousandth of an amp. Twenty five thousandths of an amp is not much current.
Should you determine the current draw exceeds the allowable limit as specified by the manufacturer, it will be necessary to identify the circuit which is creating the draw. It’s best to use the process of elimination. Look for the obvious.
Check the lamp circuits (courtesy, glove box, trunk lamp, etc.) for bulbs illuminated when they shouldn’t be. For example, a glove box or trunk lamp may remain illuminated when the lid
or door is closed. To check the trunk lamp it will be necessary to get in there with it. Caution: make sure you have a helper, and most importantly, make sure he is your friend.
If the visual inspection fails to identify the drain, pull fuses, one at a time, to find the source. Remember, if the fuse box is in the glove box, the bulb will be illuminated when the door is open. Either record its draw or disconnect the bulb. Once you identify the circuit creating the draw, refer to the service manual or a wiring diagram to determine what devices are on that circuit. Disconnecting these devices one at a time should reveal the problem circuit. If pulling fuses fails to identify the drain, it may be necessary to disconnect relays one at a time. It is simply a process of elimination, isolating
circuits to identify the problem circuit. Remember, anything operated by a switch is a likely candidate in causing current drain.

Tool:
AMMETER
BATTERY
POSITIVE CABLE
NEGATIVE CABLE
JUMPER WIRES
WITH CLIPS
1. Make certain the ignition switch is in the Lock position and all electrical accessories are off and doors closed. If equipped with a hood lamp, remove the bulb or disconnect its electrical connector.
2. Fabricate two 12 gauge jumper wires equipped with alligator clips on each end. Install the jumper wires in series with the negative battery post and cable. Next, attach the recommended ammeter test leads in parallel with the jumper wires .
3. Rotate the ignition switch to the Run position. Caution: Do not rotate the ignition switch to the Start position as the test leads and ammeter will get very hot, and damage to the vehicle and wiring harness may result.
4. Rotate the ignition switch back to the Lock position. Make certain that electrical continuity between the negative battery post and cable is not interrupted. Allow a one minute wait after placing the switch in the Lock position. The wait allows the capacitors time to charge (failure to do so may result
in misdiagnosis).
5. Disconnect the alligator clips. The ammeter is now in series with the battery post and cable. Read the amp draw on the ammeter and follow the recommended test
procedure if the drain exceeds the allowable parasitic load.

PARASITIC CURRENT DRAIN
Vehicles equipped with Electronic Control Modules can exhibit a failure mode within the ECM which can result in a high parasitic current drain on the battery. The conventional testing methods may not detect the cause. Reason: when the battery cable is disconnected, the solid state circuit which caused the excessive drain may not re-occur once the electrical circuit continuity is restored. Cycling the ignition switch to the run position, then back to the off position,
may cause the electrical drain to re-occur. CAUTION: the
ignition switch should not be turned to the accessory, run, or
start position with the ammeter installed in series with the
battery post and battery cable. If you do, your ammeter can
turn into a crispy critter.

TESTING FOR ELECTRICAL DRAINS
The desired test instrument is a Digital Ammeter capable
of reading as low as one milliamp and up to 20 amps. Meters
of a lower amp range can be used by forming a shunt using
two jumper wires in parallel across the meter. Reason: the
wake-up call necessary to charge the capacitors in a full
option state-of-the-art automotive electrical system can re-
quire as much as 6 amps for one minute. Many digital meters
are fused at 2 amps and therefore have withdrawal symptoms
when subjected to this much current. The shunt allows the
system to power up the capacitors while protecting the meter
from excessive current loads. Once the capacitors are charged, disconnect the shunt and read the ammeter for actual drain.

HOW MUCH IS TOO MUCH
Some tech manuals may include a Battery Testing Section
that lists acceptable current drains. Times change … and so
do testing procedures. Coping with all the changes doesn’t have to be a drain. Years ago, we would disconnect a battery cable, make certain all electrical accessories were turned off and the doors closed; then touch the disconnected battery cable connector to the battery post while observing
for an arc. No arc — no drain.
Some technicians used voltmeters attached in series with the disconnected battery cable and battery post. This is not a valid test to determine electrical drain. Unfortunately,
some still utilize this method and thereby condemn many good parts, in addition to wasting diagnostic time.

What is inside rechargeable batteries that makes them different from regular batteries?

Posted by admin on October 22nd, 2008

Please do not give me obvious and vague responses such as "the difference is that chargeable batteries have something in them that makes them rechargeable." I would like to know exactly what the differences are.

Because, I mean essentially, why do even still have regular batteries if we can just buy a pair that we can just recharge?

Rechargeable batteries behave like ordinary batteries when they are being discharged. In other words, an electrical circuit is created when one material oxidizes, or gives up electrons, while another material immersed in an electrolyte becomes reduced, or gains electrons.

The key to a rechargeable battery, however, is that it can reverse this flow of electrons when it is plugged into an electrical outlet. The material that oxidizes during discharge gains electrons, while the other material gives up electrons.

Why do we still have non chargeable batteries? I think because people are lazy and don't want to charge them all the time.

iPod Battery Replacement

Posted by admin on October 22nd, 2008

After the iPod hit the market, it seemed as if Apple could do no wrong. Now everyone, regardless of their software camp, could enjoy one of Apple’s classically cool and beautiful toys. It wasn’t until about 12 months after the iPod’s launch, when it came time to replace the first set of iPod batteries, that Apple hit a bump in their groove.

The iPod isn’t built for easy battery replacement like a cell phone. In order to replace the iPod battery, the casing must be completely removed, exposing all of the internal components and introducing risk of damage.

Apple initially offered a battery replacement service for $249. They later offered a one year extended warranty for $60 that covers the battery. However, it’s important to note that when Apple sends the replacement, it will be in a refurbished model iPod, not your original. Today you can find qualified iPod repair shops to replace the battery for as little as $59 or do-it-yourself kits between $19 and $39 depending on the model.

The caution with the do-it-yourself (DIY) kits however, is that the iPod wasn’t designed for the average user to change the battery. Plenty of people have been able to change their iPod batteries without problem while countless online forums divulge a long list of complications faced as a result of users trying to change the battery.

Many specialty iPod repair shops will do the replacement for little more than the cost of the battery itself. Some offer additional incentives such as consumer-friendly lifetime battery replacement program. Under the program, the company will replace the battery once a year for life. Even better, your iPod is back in your hands within 48 hours with 30% more power than Apple’s original battery.

Should you choose to replace the battery yourself, there are a few tips you’ll want to keep in mind:

- Some models like the iPod Nano require soldering directly onto the board. Be sure to check the details of the battery replacement before sending off for a DIY kit.

- Have a small thin tool on hand to pry apart the casing. Once the screws that hold the case together are removed, you still need to apply some force to open it and reveal the circuitry. Many have damaged their cases by trying to pry their iPods apart without the proper tools. Many replacement batteries come with special tools to help pry the case open.

- When disconnecting the battery, don’t remove the rubber pad located on the hard drive.

Regardless of the battery complications, people still love the fun and freedom that the iPod offers. Do a little research before deciding how to handle your battery replacement as it’s a routine that you’ll need to repeat about once every year. Even if you’re not thrilled about the fact that your iPod will need to go through major surgery every year, there are customer-friendly iPod specialty companies available to make the process smooth and simple.

Trust, Love, Sex and Batteries

Posted by admin on October 22nd, 2008

Women

Women are complex creatures aren’t we. We want love, companionship, security and good sex. Wow, that’s a LOT to ask for isn’t it. Chances are you fit the bill on most of these which ALSO means you probably fail miserably in ONE of these. This is where I come in. When it comes to sex men and women are very different which means men don’t intuitively know everything that a women wants and vice versa. To give our partner true pleasure takes educating yourself, communication, understanding and a desire to succeed on both ends. What I will talk about here touches on all of these things. You, as the man in the relationship, have some very unique responsibilities in the bedroom. You are responsible for making your partner feel accepted, enticed, intrigued, playful, willing, adventurous and beautiful. Sounds hard, but it’s very simple and I’m going to help you understand how easy it all truly is.

Trust

Trust is an emotion that runs very deep. Trusting someone to be there in a time of need, or to be honest at all times, to do what they say they will do, to be caring and kind are all directly related to trust in the bedroom. If you “blow up” on your partner for silly reasons do not expect her to be very open with you in the bedroom. Trust is trust. You either feel it or you don’t. All types of mistrust affect all types of trust. Crazy, I know. Chances are though you don’t have a problem in the trust department.

How This Helps You: If she completely trusts you, she’ll do just about anything you want in the sack. Yep, anything.

Self Consciousness

Has your partner ever said “I’m fat”, or “How do I look?”. Women are notorious for self consciousness. How do you think this equates into the bedroom? I think it’s fairly easy to understand that if you do not happily accept almost EVERYthing about her sexuality, then you are directly causing her to feel self conscious. Yes, YOU. Self consciousness is key here. It can make a potentially top rated sexual experience and diminish it to nothing. Get rid of it ! NOW ! If your woman likes you to smear jello all over her body, DO IT. And do it with a grin. Not only that but be excited about it. Go in the kitchen, make the damn jello yourself and BEG her to let you do it. Make HER feel comfortable, or you will take your sex life to a very unhappy place.

How This Helps You: If you help rid her of self consciousness she’ll quickly become more sexual and allow more intense interaction and more often.

Women’s Orgasms

Bet you didn’t know there are at least 3 types, which are outlined here. If you know of them… kudos. Not many do.

The first type is clitoral and does not involve penetration. This is the weakest of the three. This is usually what women fall back on when they cannot achieve the other 2 better orgasms. It is done by rubbing the clitoris a LOT.

The second type of orgasm is cervical. This is a very good one to get but many women have a hard time getting it. These are very deep at the back of the vagina towards the uterus. The cervix actually pops out of place with each spasm, slamming against the bottom of the vagina. Studies suggest the purpose of this is to gather up the sperm, sucking it up into the body for the purpose of procreation.

The third type of orgasm is called “Female Ejaculation” or “The G Spot Orgasm”.

Half of the women alive don’t even KNOW what this is and have never had one. Many women start to feel it happen and make their partner stop. This is the type of orgasm that soaks the sheets. And guys, no it’s not urine. Women have a “G Spot” which is a gland 1-3 inches inside the vagina that produces a similar substance to men’s sperm. The substance is watery, cloudy white, sticky and sweet. Some women can produce a gallon in 30 minutes if they are stimulated properly. Women who don’t know what this is feel pressure building. The g-spot is located directly below the bladder which gives the woman a feeling like they have to urinate. This is usually when they want to stop. I do my best to educate women on this subject but YOU as HER man are her best teacher. Please note: The female should always urinate before sex to prevent infection, but this ALSO helps keep the urine concentration to a low level during FE. It does come from the same place and the first ejaculation may have a bit of a urinesque odor but further ejaculations in the same sex session will be of a purer form of female ejaculate.

Statistics

70% of all women have trouble reaching climax. Could you imagine having sex all the time and only getting off 20 percent of the time? You would go nuts. How do you think SHE feels? Is she too embarrassed to talk about it with you? Too scared she’ll hurt your feelings? Most likely. Why do you think ALL women know how to “fake it”. It’s time to take this issue out of the closet and deal with it guys. You must realize that it’s NOT your fault. If you go into the bedroom feeling “weird”, it will do damage to your relationship. The villain here is being just plain unlucky. 1 out of 50 women are lucky enough to be “model” gorgeous. Well, the same applies to placement of anatomy in the genital region. Most women were just not lucky enough to be born with all their parts in the perfect place for easy orgasms. The other culprits are mistrust and close-mindedness.

The Good News !!

There are products and techniques that you can introduce into your relationship to make your woman start having orgasms all the time. Some of you may have already experienced this. Maybe she brought in a vibrator? If so, good for her! You should be proud of her for being courageous enough and you should be supportive. If YOU feel weird about it, it will make HER feel weird and we’ve already discussed how that ends up. If you don’t own any sex toys, you SHOULD. Every woman should own a bullet vibrator that can be used while having intercourse with you. The bullet is placed onto the clitoris while you have sex. She will go from never having orgasms to having multiples. It’s very therapeutic for your relationship for her to orgasm every time you have sex. The bullet helps her achieve this. It is NOT a replacement of you and it’s NOT your fault that she needs one.

Her First Time

Some women, like myself, when confronted with a vibrator for the first time react very badly. Some say “NO WAY”. But on the inside we really want to try it. We’re just scared or embarrassed. It is YOUR JOB to make her feel comfortable. It is YOUR JOB to insist that she try it. She may say no the first few times but eventually she will try it under the guise that it’s “just for you”. Hook, line and sinker. You’ve got her.

Some Points To Remember

1- Get a bullet.

2- Make her use it.

3- Be supportive, be ENTHUSIASTIC about her using it, even if you have to fake it at first.

4- Keep a smile on your face.

5- Don’t ever be embarrassed or self conscious. Your woman has enough self consciousness for everyone. It’s your job to be COURAGEOUS in bed, even if you have to fake it at first until you get your bearings.

6- When you feel her drying out for any reason IMMEDIATELY use a lubricant. If you don’t, I guarantee she’ll be faking it through immense pain. Do not use spit unless you want to give her an infection.

7- Items to have on hand – KY or lubricant of your choice, extra batteries, a bullet vibrator, a candle, towels or a waterproof bed sheet. These are just the basics. Good luck to you and yours !

Rubydragons Adult Emporium

Can you measure how much of a battery is left?

Posted by admin on October 20th, 2008

I know you can test voltage of a battery, but can you test how much of a battery is left?

One of my smoke alarms is "chirping", so I figured the battery is getting weak. However, when I hook it up to a battery tester I get 9.3 volts across the terminals. What is my smoke alarm doing to know this battery is weak?

It is testing power not voltage. there are two components of power, voltage and current. The battery is starting to get too week to supply the correct amount of power, the detector is testing the batteries peak power output which will degrade by usage or just over time. Yes can can buy battery testers, that measure the power output form a battery.

What is proper voltage for battery for 1997 Cadillac Deville?

Posted by admin on October 20th, 2008

I just had to have a brand new alternator and battery (best one sold - or at least most expensive - at Sears Auto which was the only shop open this weekend when car broke down). At night with lights on the battery ranges from 11.8 volts when at idle to 12.5 while driving. During the day the battery ranges from 12.2 volts to 13.1 volts. I've been told this is too low (especially the night voltage) with brand new alternator & battery. Could there be another problem?

The problem is a defective alternator, they probably got it from auto zone. Take the car back to Sears and tell them what is going on, I am sure they will resolve the problem at no cost to you.

what is the differance between NIMH batteries and NICAD batteries?

Posted by admin on October 20th, 2008

I need to get new battery for my Airsoft gun and I have found a website that makes batteries but I need to know what kind of cells I should get . I dont know the differance between these kinds of batteries so I need help .

In this case, it really depends how often you use your Airsoft gun.

Choose NICAD if you use it constantly as it will last longer overtime. The only down with NICAD is that you need to wait until the battery is low to recharge the battery, and you have to fully charge the battery before using your gun.

NIMH are better if you use your airsoft gun sporatically, It will last longer if you don't use your gun often and it is not affected by the "memory effect" like NICAD. So you can charge your NIMH battery whenever and stop charging it half way thru if you need.

On both type: The battery will no hold a charge after so many charging / discharging cycle you go thru.

NICAD are better cycle wise but you do need to use it often.

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